Drinks of the Month

What champagne to buy (and what not to buy) for Valentine's Day
Do you need to splash out on champagne for Valentine’s Day - and if so how much do you need to pay for it? You may not realise quite what pressure you’re under to spend over the odds
Must it be pink?
For a start, there’s the colour. Rosé champagne, which is heavily promoted at this time of year, costs more than ordinary non-vintage despite only being marginally more expensive to make. Compare the price of standard and rosé sparkling wine and you’ll see there’s little if any difference though English winemakers have tended to follow their French counterparts in slapping on a premium.
The new kid on the block this year is pink prosecco (producers who wanted to make a sparkling rosé couldn't call it prosecco before) which tends to be cheaper. Lidl does a very posh looking one for just £6.49.
Are the reductions genuine?
Well they have to have been sold at the original price by law but how often do you see them at that price? To take a typical example the full price of Bollinger is around £45-£50 normally though Harvey Nichols has it for £55. Waitrose is currently selling it for £35 - £10 cheaper than Tesco but still not cheap when you think about it. You could get a couple of REALLY good still wines for £35.
Should I buy vintage fizz?
Vintage champagne - champagne that comes from a single year rather than being blended from wines from several harvests - is pricier still. Generally it’s of a higher quality but unless you’re going to savour every sip (and haven’t you other things to concentrate on?) it’s possibly not worth it on this occasion.
What about a half bottle?
You need to be aware you're paying a premium for half bottles given the extra costs of bottling a non-standard size but that said It may be just the amount of champagne you actually want to drink. Two I recommended a couple of months ago in The Guardian are Pol Roger and Louis Roederer. You're more likely to find them in a local wine merchant though than in a supermarket. (My local, DBM Wines in Bristol generally has the Pol)
Do you pay for the name?
Then there’s the snob factor. You will pay inevitably pay more for a famous name than a lesser known champagne house or own label. Do by all means splash out on a grande marque if it will do the trick but If your loved one doesn't know one champagne from the next and would actually rather have a glass of prosecco don’t waste your money!
So what specifically should I buy?
As I've suggested it depends who you're buying it for but I’d be inclined to pick from one of these:
Sainsbury's brut rosé champagne £22
If you’re not a label fetishist this very pretty champagne which is made by the respected house of Duval-Leroy is great value. Often on special offer though sadly not at the moment.
Le Pionniers rosé from the Co-op £22
The rosé version of the Co-op's excellent Les Pionniers range is still the same price as when I first wrote this article in 2018. and is not wildly more expensive than the standard version.
Devaux Oeil de Perdrix £27.99 a bottle if you buy on a mix six deal from Majestic (not all of which have to be champagne)
Less well known but delicate and prettily packaged barely pink fizz which Majestic has been selling for yonks (oeil de perdrix means partidge's eye which admittedly may not be the big selling point for your loved one)
Bollinger
As I mentioned Asda and Waitrose are both selling Bolly for £35 which you may feel is worth a whirl. So does Amazon if you’re on Prime.
Taittinger Brut NV
A lighter, fresher style of champagne for those who don't like it too toasty and biscuity. Waitrose has it for £28 currently which is a pretty good deal.
Bredon Cuvée Jean Louis Brut £17.99 Waitrose
There’s a full 1/3 discount on this consistently reliable rich toasty fizz which is less than you’ll pay for full bottles of their own label fizz but they are selling half bottles for £11.99 currently and as part of their Valentine's Day meal deal.
These comparisons do show how wildly champagne prices can fluctuate - not only on V day, right throughout the year - so at least Google the champagne you’re thinking of buying to make sure you’re not paying over the odds. (Amazon, for example, may be the most convenient but it's rarely the cheapest for wine!)

Should you buy these Asda wine ‘bargains’?
I was recently sent six festive bottles that Asda has on promotion at the moment - well known classics at substantial reductions with some medal-winners among them (though it’s not clear whether these awards apply to the current vintage).
They arrived after I wrote my column for the Guardian about how some wines are habitually overrated. You can’t complain about these prices but will they live up to your expectations?
Chateauneuf du Pape 2019 14.5% £9.97 instead of £18
Slightly dubious original pricing - I’d have said it was worth more like £15-16 - and young for a Chateauneuf but undeniably attractive with a big wallop of rich spicy fruit.
Verdict: a good bottle for the Christmas table at a very fair price. Buy
Borsari Amarone della Valpolicella 2017 15% £9.97 was £13
Big and rich, but slightly coarse and clumsily oaked. Would disappoint if you’re an amarone fan
Verdict: Pass
Chablis 2018 12.5% £6.97 was £12
Not the best supermarket Chablis I’ve tasted - a bit softer, fruitier and less mineral than Chablis at its best though at under £7 you really can't quibble. Hard to see how it won a gold medal though
Verdict: Worth buying at this price as a crisp fresh white to drink over Christmas
Louis Dailly Pouilly-Fumé 2019 14% £7.97 was £12
There are a couple of weird things about this wine. One is that it’s labelled Grand vin de Bourgogne and bottled at Saint-Jean-d’Ardières in the Rhône. The other is that despite being 14% - high for a sauvignon blanc especially from the Loire - it tastes quite thin. There’s a lot of sauvignon blanc about at this price - most Touraine sauvignons would have more flavour - so don’t rush to buy it just because the offer looks good.
Verdict: Not impressed.
Louis Bernard Vintage Brut Extra Special 2008 12% £22
Rich, toasty and complex as you’d expect from a champagne of this age but is that necessarily what you want? if you’re looking for an aperitif you’d probably enjoy a fresher non-vintage style more. It would be cheaper too.
Verdict: Not a bad buy but there’s plenty of champagne on offer at the moment. I’d go for Lidl’s Comte de Senneval at £12.99 rather than this.
Filippo Sansovino Valdobbiadene Prosecco 11.5% £9 was £10
Really not exceptional either in quality or price. Even with £1 reduction they’re making a good margin on this.
Verdict: Pass. There are better buys out there if you’re a prosecco fan. Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Conegliano Prosecco which is currently £8, for one.
Overall: If you generally shop in Asda I’d buy a bottle or two of the Chateauneuf and Chablis but not the others. And I wouldn’t make a special trip to go there for these wines.

Valpolicella Ripasso 2013 Cantina Valpantena
If you’re on holiday in the wilds of nowhere chances are your only shop - in the UK at least - is a Spar. I would at one point have said that spelled death to the chance of a decent bottle of wine but was recently sent a selection which really wasn’t half bad.
And the good news is that all are on promotion at one point or another in the next couple of weeks
The best - and the most expensive - is a 2013 Valpolicella Ripasso from Cantina Valpantena (13.5%) which is normally £10 but on promotion at £8 until August 20th. Ripassos are more intense and sweeter than basic valpolicellas - they chuck in the skins that are used for making amarone - so it’s more of a wine to drink with a steak or a stew or, better still, a cheeseboard than a plate of pasta but it would be just the thing for the sort of wet windy evening that is a regular feature of an English summer holiday.
Another good Italian buy, and the best white I tasted, was the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2014 from the reliable Monte Shiavo (12.5%) which is currently £8 but goes down to £6.50 from August 21st. Ignore the naff curvy bottle - this is one of those immensely useful Italian whites that doesn’t taste of much but goes with practically everything, especially fishy pasta dishes. And is much, much nicer than your average pinot grigio.
I also thought the crisp, citrussy Castillo de la Mota Verdejo 2014 Rueda (12.5%) £7.50 reduced to £5.50 until 20/8 was decent. Another good one for seafood like fresh crab or, better still, fish and chips. You’ll like it if you’re a sauvignon blanc fan

And if you like Malbec - and who doesn’t these days? - try the M Malbec Pays d’Oc 2014 (13%) £7.50 but reduced to £6 from 21/8 which is a little soft for my taste but would still be a good drop with anything meaty. (I like their Argentinian one, the Rios de los Andes 2014 Argentinian Malbec less - it’s soupier still - but it’s only £6 at the moment and if it were the only one of the five available I would fall on it gratefully.)
These wines won’t, of course, be available in all Spar outlets - which may cause frustration but hopefully you’ll find at least one. With any luck the Valpolicella.
Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


